Tony Bish Golden Egg Chardonnay Hawke's Bay 2023

Wine Orbit

Elegant and alluring, this seductive wine shows nectarine, lemon pith, green rockmelon and almond meal nuances on the nose with a hint of flinty mineral. The concentrated palate displays brilliant structure and persistency, with delightfully flowing mouthfeel and finely infused acidity. A stunning beauty offering finesse and poise with a prolonged, linear finish.

Cameron Douglas, Master Sommelier

A fascinating and complex wine with a bouquet that is slow at first to open up then suddenly a rush of aromas that embrace ripe white fleshed fruits, sweet grapefruit, and gentle mineral complexities. A poised and youthful wine touches the palate, first reflecting flavours from the bouquet then showcasing a mineral and sense of place layer. Persistent, taut and textured remains the theme with core flavours from fruits, lees and a fine chalky mouthfeel. Well made, complex and ready to drink from early 2025 through 2030.

Candice Chow

Fermented and aged in concrete egg. Elegant and pure with subtle power, guide by invigorating acidity to a graceful, textural finish. Sleek and seamless.

The Real Review

Complex layers of flint, subtle citrus and pineapple, seasoned with subtle spice and smoke. Slow to unfurl, it is tightly reductive on the palate where steely flavours linger across the pithy phenolics on the back palate before snakeskin-like phenolics spread across the creamy but austere finish. A very young wine with excellent structure and interesting mouthfeel, this is built in the classical manner with a streak of fashionable reduction though the fruit within is strangely shaded and quiet. It is likely to remain a more contemplative, quieter wine throughout its life, with enough density to justify mid-term cellaring.

Joelle Thomson

Grapes from Bridge Pa, Ohiti Valley and Mangatahi go into this rounded, full-bodied Chardonnay from Chardonnista Tony Bish, who brings out sublime flesh and textural interest in this wine and aromatic complexity. Flinty aromas are balanced by citrus freshness and commanding layers of subtle fresh hazelnuts, spice and a silky texture. This wine gains its depth from the grapes, time spent on the lees and great winemaking. It is devoid of oak – not that you’d know it – and puts a great case forward for the mantra that less is more.

Raymond Chan

Bright, pale yellow with depth and a green hue, even colour throughout. The nose is elegantly presented, concentrated and lifted aromas with a citrus core, stonefruit and a hint of pineapple, melded with delicate spice, subtle bread dough, and creamy elements. Medium-bodied, a focused palate carries lemon, lemon curd and pineapple passing through crushed rocks, unveiling delicate spice, chamomile, almond butter and a hint of creamy yoghurt. The mouthfeel is sleek, combining smooth flowing creaminess and crisp minerals texture. The wine shows concentration of fruit with underlying power; seamless acidity carries the wine effortlessly to a long lingering. This stylish, sleek Chardonnay shows refinement and elegance with concentrated fruit, seamless acidity, and well-portioned spice and texture. Match with kingfish tataki and langoustine over the next 6-8 years. Handpicked Mendoza clone Chardonnay, fermented and aged in NZ made concrete egg-shaped fermenters, full MLF. 13.5% alc. 19.5-/20 pts (97 pts)

Cameron Douglas, Master Sommelier

I love the complexity in the bouquet of this wine – the synergy of minerality and lees complexities combined with the freshness of the fruit profile entices and intrigues. Equally complex on the palate, taut, chalky and youthful with flavours of citrus fruits and less, stone fruits and fine mineral qualities. Some fruit tannins and youthful acidity combine for a sound foundation. Lengthy and delicious. Best drinking from 2023 through 2029.

Wine Orbit

"Gorgeously restrained with a charming sense of elegance, the wine shows nectarine, lemon peel, roasted cashew and oatmeal nuances on the nose. The concentrated palate displays excellent focus and flow, wonderfully complemented by creamy mouthfeel and firm acidity. Superbly harmonious and structured. At its best: 2023 to 2031."

Bob Campbell

RECOMMENDED - Fermented in an egg-shaped concrete vessel that Bish claims gives the wine “incredible purity and a smooth, seamless texture”. I can’t argue with that. It is a rich, weighty, mouth-filling chardonnay with a pleasing, mellow texture and lingering finish. Impressive.